Medal of Excellence Awarded to
Relentless Knives by 10th Mtn Div. U.S. Army,

Camp Liberty, Iraq 2006
Relentless M4X  chosen out of 30 knives
to be the Official knife of  Marvel Comic book
character The Punisher 
and appeared in the 2008 Lions gate
Production of  Punisher War Zone

Special Edition  Movie Knife
M4X  Special Edition Movie Knifes30V steel
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The Relentless Knives  E news is published on a monthly basis,
and written by Daniel M. Certo.
Knife Tests and Reviews By: Maj. Ian Humphrey.
Other writings by various contributers..
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Relentless M4X Punisher knife in the hands of Ray Stevenson in 2008 Lions gate Movie Punisher War Zone
Jon Barton Tactical Media Productions
Also  we think Lexi Alexander is 10X and the best director worldwide.
She owns a Relentless Knife.....!
Click her photo to read her blog.  See her latest movie Lifted on NetFlix
read archived Relentless Enews Punisher War Zone Movie Edition
Help the familys of U.S. Marines and Law Enforcement officers who have made the ultimate sacrifice for their country.
Relentless knives believes in the Protection and Defense of the Constitution of the United States of America  By Peter Ferrara, an associate professor of law at the George Mason University School of Law.
September 25, 2001 9:20 a.m. National Review
To Kill an American
You probably missed it in the rush of news last week, but there was actually a report that someone in Pakistan had published in a newspaper an offer of a reward to anyone who killed an American, any American.
So I just thought I would write to let them know what an American is, so they would know when they found one.
An American is English, or French, or Italian, Irish, German, Spanish, Polish, Russian or Greek. An American may also be Canadian, Mexican, African, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Australian, Iranian, Asian, or Arab, or Pakistani or Afghan.
An American may also be a Comanche, Cherokee, Osage, Blackfoot, Navaho, Apache, Seminole or one of the many other tribes known as Native Americans.
An American is Christian, or he could be Jewish, or Buddhist, or Muslim. In fact, there are more Muslims in America than in Afghanistan . The only difference is that in America they are free to worship as each of them chooses.
An American is also free to believe in no religion. For that he will answer only to God, not to the government, or to armed thugs claiming to speak for the government and for God.
An American lives in the most prosperous land in the history of the world. The root of that prosperity can be found in the Declaration of Independence , which recognizes the God given right of each person to the pursuit of happiness.
An American is generous.
Americans have helped out just about every other nation in the world in their time of need, never asking a thing in return.
When Afghanistan was over-run by the Soviet army 20 years ago, Americans came with arms and supplies to enable the people to win back their country! As of the morning of September 11, Americans had given more than any other nation to the poor in Afghanistan.
Americans welcome the best of everything...the best products, the best books, the best music, the best food, the best services.
But they also welcome the least.
The national symbol of America , The Statue of Liberty , welcomes your tired and your poor, the wretched refuse of your teeming shores, the homeless, tempest tossed. These in fact are the people who built America .
Some of them were working in the Twin Towers the morning of September 11, 2001 earning a better life for their families. It's been told that the World Trade Center victims were from at least 30 different countries, cultures, and first languages, including those that aided and abetted the terrorists.
So you can try to kill an American if you must. Hitler did. So did General Tojo, and Stalin, and Mao Tse-Tung, and other blood-thirsty tyrants in the world. But, in doing so you would just be killing yourself. Because Americans are not a particular people from a particular place. They are the embodiment of the human spirit of freedom                                  

visit the Punisher Knife web site
Don't wait ....having a good knife can make the difference between life and death in a survival situation.
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Relentless Knives,have found their way all over the world.
In many places the term relentless
is more than a brand name on a knife.
Websters  Dictionary defines the term
re-lent-less; Unmoved by love or pity: Unceasing, as without mercy.  A tough word, for tough people, needing tough equipment.
Thanks to the men and women of the U.S. Armed Forces and others, for their relentless pursuit of protecting  freedom, and using
Relentless Knives to help them  along their way.
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Sept 2013
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Many of you already know the following, but I get lots of inquiries from those that are unsure. To the knife efficianato this is old hat.  To those just starting in the  knife world, custom or otherwise,   it can be the difference between a long lasting partnership with an excellent tool  or lots of frustration.
Keeping your knife sharp
by:Daniel M. Certo
M4 Bounty Hunter
M1 A.C.E.
M1A A.C.E.

Before the CPM steels, edge holding had everything to do with the hardness of the steel. This has not changed much with 5160 or any of the basic carbon steels, but they are not made by the same process. Extra hardness does increase edge holding but also increases brittleness. It also makes the knife harder to sharpen in the field.  So when you have a knife with RC 60 or 61 on the edge, and it's a basic or even alloy carbon steel you can expect brittleness which often equals breakage.  It's just part of the territory.  The CPM steels need not be as hard to retain their abrasion resistance, thus they are easier to sharpen, and are not as brittle when correctly prepared. These attributes go a long way in making your knife last longer and be stronger than ever before. The correctly prepared aspect is very important with the CPM steels, because they are not the same. With RC 60 and above hardness, they become very difficult to sharpen and can be just as brittle as the basic steels. Hard to sharpen is not a problem when your sitting at home, but in the field where you have a life line to cut, the extra time and effort can magnify.

So I'll end this here with these three points as paramount to end user satisfaction from a knife.
Design......will it easily do the job your going to use it for
the most. it made from material that will endure
what I plan to use it for.
Steel preparation: Is the steel I choose prepared in a manner that will endure my primary  intended use.
Extended experience in law enforcement on the warrant squad
and moon lighting as a bounty hunter required that I kick in many of doors  Not good for your feet and landlords hate it, but necessary
in order to retrieve  misguided individuals who were often stubborn as hell. Believe it or not, human beings on certain illicit substances feel almost no pain, and can squeeze through spaces  as small as heat transfer registers, hiding inside walls,between joists,under floors, behind doors etc.
Since once an action was started in such situations, the subject, sometimes a very dangerous one, could not simply stop in midstream and go get the proper tool. Belt carry of every conceivable tool was also not an option.
So, the M4 Bounty Hunter knife idea was born and sort of been going ever since. It's a utility knife good at as many things as possible in a small super sturdy package. You can cut rope, pry open doors and windows, protect your self, hammer stuff, break glass and cut your dinner with it. It's small enough not to get in the way, clip it on /off your duty belt. Not something your average hunting knife is  going to do well.

Next lets discuss steels. As in the article above, it's real important to
select the right design and next the steel for your primary intended usage. If your a chef with a 10 knife collection to do your job the failure of one knife is not going to ruin your special feast. Not so for the soldier, policeman or rescue squad.
Most of the cataloged Relentless knives are designed with military and police usage in mind. Not so much as weaponry, but useful tools that cut and pry, saw hammer and chop all in one package.

My focus is first toughness then edge retention.  I figure a broken knife that can not be repaired is worse than a dull knife that can be sharpened.
The first one was 5160 steel, not a star in long term edge retention,
but it has tremendous break resistance and it does cut well when kept sharp
and remains very economical.  Even so, some were not content with
the extra sharpening chores required  with 5160.
The only way to make the 5160 knife have better edge holding was to forge and trip thermo quench etc. This improved the edge holding considerably and satisfied those who afforded it. It also improved the flexibility to a point that when Zone tempered it's almost impossible to break with human force alone.
Steel has advanced considerably since then, and with the same focus I have
put the advancements to work.
CPM 3V is about the best steel I have seen with break resistance being first, and edge holding next.

LBPF1 Leather Pouch Front sheath with fire steel holder
The only reason a knife cuts anything is due to a micro feather of steel actually extending out from the edge of the sharpened blade the entire length. At first your knife is razor sharp....that's when this feather is standing straight up like the hair on a dogs back when he is expecting danger.
The CPM steels offer us things that were before not available. That doesn't mean that we will have a knife that doesn't need sharpened, but it does result in a knife that need not be as hard which means less brittleness, less breakage and chipping.
Easier to sharpen in the field and longer time between sharpening's.
Part of this is due to the fact that the CPM steels are made by a different process, which actually forges the steel before it is complete. This results in a tighter mix, which means that the feather of steel is stronger and will stay in the upright position longer.
Further, the angle of the edge has lots to do with all of it. A steeper angle is going to feel and act sharper than a less steep edge , but it will also be more delicate.
Imagine a pencil. Then put it into a pencil sharpener, and the result will most likely be a long thin super sharp point.  Next remember the last time you went golfing or mini golfing
and the pencil you may have been given. These pencils are sharp, but notice the angle is not nearly as steep. This is so the points don't break off as easily and these pencils require less sharpening. They are not as precise due to the shallower angle, but they last a lot longer and save the golf place money on pencils and sharpening.

Knife edges follow the same rules as pencil points.  The type of cutting you're doing affects the most desirable angle. A real steep angled edge is great for razor sharp performance, but not so good for chopping as it is far more delicate.
Next the material your cutting has every thing to do with how long the edge will last.
The pencil....drawing on paper won't have the same effect on your pencil point as drawing the same thing on ply wood. Remember  we are dealing with a microscopic feather of steel.
I figure a good example might be, to tie something delicate to the back of your truck or car, and
then slowly drag it for  100 yards through a bed of marsh mellows. Next we turn onto a field of
card board for another 100 yards. Finally lets do 100 yards on burlap sacks.....Get the drift.
Point is, I can go on and on about the variables, because each cutting job will do different things to a knife edge, and, most personal use knives are used for a wide variety of cutting chores.
Some chores are going to require a very steep edge which will slice and some a more shallow and durable edge like chopping. That's why there are a wide variety of knife shapes, sizes, thicknesses, and steels.  Keep in mind that the design of the knife, heat treatment etc. of the steel has everything to do with it's over all performance on different jobs just like the angle of the cutting edge has to do with cutting ability.
When your using a stone or diamond sharpener, you are reshaping the edge. Keep the angle in mind, and try to keep it the same the whole
length of the blade. Many people ask me the correct angle for an edge, and experts recommend  different angles usually between 22 and 27 degrees. I've been making knives for 20 years, and have sharpened perhaps thousands. Some people like the edge I put on the knives and others wish they were sharper.
My view is that I don't really know what your going to cut with the knife, so I put what might be termed a utility edge on my knives.
That means it will easily slice thick leather, card board, carpet, rope etc. and will in many cases shave hair from an arm.
Yes they could be sharper, but as illustrated above, the steeper the angle the more delicate the edge.
A long time ago before ever making a knife,  I purchased a factory knife that was real special to me. I used it a lot and
the only problem was that I was never able to get it back to it's original sharpness  using hand sharpening tools.
I purchased all different implements and did my best to get an exact angle using several different types of jigs thinking that the edge angle
would cure my dilemma. Well, the correct angle is part of it, but , the rest is polishing the edge. In the shop, or factory, this can be done in a few seconds on a buffing wheel, but by hand, it takes a bit longer with super fine grit oiled stones etc. This finishing touch
makes that feather of steel that does the cutting smooth and shiny allowing it to glide through the material being cut rather than saw through it. Of course it depends on your chore, because if your cutting large amounts of rope, you can sharpen your knife with a file which will leave you with a rough yet sharp edge that when viewed under a microscope looks like a saw blade, and allow you to cut lots and lots of rope quicker and easier than the polished edge.

More on the subject:
So, in order to get the most out of all of it,while that feather of steel still exists but has just lay ed down a bit, the steel or ceramic rod gently lifts it back up into cutting position. Yes in doing that you might loose a bit of it, and the edge might feel rougher than originally, but it's still there and will do far better than when laying down.
NOTE: If the micro feather is gone, the steel or ceramic rod won't do anything. That's when you need a diamond or stone which wears away the edge until it's thin enough to be a new feather.
After you cut some stuff, this feather starts to lay back
down and your knife will feel and act less sharp. After more cutting, or in very humid conditions, the feather will deteriorate and finally be gone. That's when the knife feels dull.
M1A 10 inch blade